*originally created for Monday, 7/20/09 – posted and edited later (as internet connection allowed)
In actuality, we woke up in France, drove through Italy, watched the Tour in Switzerland, drove back through Italy, had dinner, and went to sleep in France today, but that would be a pretty lengthy blog title ;). We made it safely to our hotel in the French Alps, arriving late Saturday night, actually after dark. Our room here is actually called an apartment (sleeps 7 and has 2 bathrooms) and after the tiny room in Colmar, it is lovely to stretch out! Our hotel is also literally at the top of the Petit Saint Bernard (or PS Bernardo as the Italians call it) and getting to it required driving up a twisty mountain road of switchbacks (many of which seemed like hair pin turns to me). Matthew does marvelously driving over here (all the little cars here love to go zippy!), but I admit I held on to my door handle pretty tight on the mountain roads :). The nice thing is that when we woke this next morning, this was the view of the Tarentaise Valley from our balcony……….
This area is really beyond words for description so here is a picture we took descending the mountain today:
Everywhere you go is a beautiful mountain village, a cascading water fall, or a serene valley. I would guess that living here, you must become numb to the sights, but as a visitor it is truly good for the soul to just look around and breathe in the Alpine air. It is also a great place to recuperate after our long day on Saturday (7/18/09), driving from Colmar to Stage 14 in Delle and then proceeding to the La Rosiere area in the Alps.
Stage 14 was a wet and cold one for the riders, and I was glad I brought a heavy sweatshirt and umbrellas. We were able to get a great spot to watch the Tour in Delle, at the base of a mountain and in a feed zone. The funny thing is that our rental car has German plates and we parked between 2 RV’s, whose owners immediately descended upon us and began speaking German, excited that we were all countrymen. We had to disappoint them by saying that we were American, but thankfully they spoke English pretty well and were very wonderful to talk with. Actually, we have met the most wonderful people in general, all so nice and really excited to see non-Europeans make the trip over for the Tour. The two German gentlemen from the RV’s chatted Matthew up for a while, discussing everything from the riders (I think they were very impressed with Matthew’s knowledge of the sport!) to the national pension system in Germany. Interestingly, when Germans turn 50, they receive 50% of their average salary and when they turn 60, they receive 70% and that is how everyone there retires. These gentlemen were both over 60 and said they were using their pensions to follow the Tour :). And speaking of RV’s………..there is a HUGE presence of RV’s following the Tour around and ALL of them have been small self-contained units or small cars towing a small camper, such as in the picture here…….we have seen not one truck or SUV yet. Matthew asked if they had any trouble getting up the mountain stages and they said none at all.
These signs here indicate the area we were (the distance to the summit and the end of the feed zone area) to watch stage 14. I think the amount of work that goes into setting up the tour route and taking it down to move to the next town is astounding. Here is also a picture of some of the workmen putting a display sign and barriers up. How many of these guys does it take though to cover the 200 km daily route and do it all again tomorrow??
It was also interesting to me how the whole feed zone works…….it is a 3 km stretch where the team cars can give the riders a musette (sp?) bag filled with a water bottle, power bar type food, and liquid carbohydrates to fuel them for the mountain climb ahead. The riders then eat/drink what they want and throw the bag and leftover contents to the crowd. Here are some of the cyclists eating en route…….
Matthew was really hoping to get an item that one of the riders might cast off, and Lance Armstrong actually threw one of his power bars in Matthew’s direction (Matthew was dressed in Texas Longhorn gear and waving an American flag on a pole so maybe it was deliberate?) but a small German child standing next to Matthew ran over and snatched it up……those tricky Germans ;P. Matthew was kind of bummed but went to talk to the family and when Matthew mentioned that Lance had thrown the food item, the father said he had ridden with Lance several years ago! Apparently, he was trying to be a professional cyclist but he said the competition among German riders is very stiff and he did not make the cut. Even in foreign lands, Matthew is able to chat up and charm everyone and learn all kinds of interesting things 🙂
After the peloton passed, I was happy to get in the dry, warm car and head south. It was a pretty lengthy drive but we went through Lake Genève and took the tunnel through Mont Blanc! Tolls are pretty hefty in France and it cost us 40 Euros but was pretty marvelous to actually travel through this huge peak. How many times can you say you drove through the Alps………literally! As we drove through the mountains and ascended the PS Bernard for our hotel, the temperature drop was about 20 degrees and we arrived to 34 degree weather at the mountain summit………crazy to see snow on the ground here in July!
On Sunday (7/19/09) we woke up to 50 degrees and sunny, and honestly it felt like about 65 on the mountain top and was absolutely perfect! We went to the local Patisserie for a baguette and pastries and bought some other supplies at a small market here. This is a ski resort location and you can just picture posh Europeans running around town in all their ski gear at the height of the season. It is relatively quiet now, but with the Tour coming through here on Tuesday, it is expected to be hopping and you can already see people camping all along the mountainside!!
When we went into the grocery store, we noticed a rather scruffy looking poodle outside and when we opened the door she ran in and started going after a pup half her size. Europeans by the way seem VERY dog friendly, taking them almost everywhere, walking them without leashes, giving them kisses in public, etc.. Apparently the vicious poodle belonged to the clerk (maybe owner?) of the market and she ran out holding the dog and throwing him in her car, screaming repeatedly about “le voiture” (the car…..and I was just happy to hear a French word I knew), hehe.
After purchasing our picnic items for the day, we headed out and had an absolutely gorgeous drive about 90 minutes north to Verbier, Switzerland, going through Aosta, Italy. We passed numerous amateur cyclists on the way to the Tour route that seemed to have no issues with the inclines in the Alps. These cyclists by the way seem to range in age from their 20’s to their 70’s and ride a huge range of very expensive bikes to the Wal-Mart equivalent type ones. Cyclists over here seem to garner a good deal of respect from motorists too and many roads have a separate lane for bikes and cars give them a wide berth, especially on the twisty mountain roads.
After arriving in Verbier and picking our spot to watch the Tour on the mountain’s ascent, we set up shop out of the back of our car (a Ford Focus diesel btw)………
We garnered a huge amount of attention from our flags, ranging from cheers and claps of “Go Texas! Go Lance!” to people stopping and chatting us up. It is a GREAT, FUN atmosphere and just a feeling of people from many different places coming to share the love of a sport. That sounded pretty corny and if I was a better writer I could probably convey that with less sugary sentiment :). Anyhow, our most intriguing visitor was Dory……..Dory is from Seattle, WA and is a huge cycling fan! He attended the Tour of California, Tour of Spain, and the Giro D’Italia this year before coming to the Tour and he has done this for the past few years. He works for an Aeronautics Manufacturer and I would say he probably does quite well considering his travel schedule. Really nice guy, and seemed super excited to see Americans out there! As you can see from his bike, he has quite a set up (which he calls his kit) and it involves an American flag flying on his bike, a cyclist’s outfit (with one of the big American riders names on it), and a helmet with a large set of plastic caribou/big deer horns (those horns were part of the Levi Leipheimer hit, and he said he also has a helmet with a huge set of longhorns for Lance and another with a huge set of eagle wings for George Hincappie, another American rider). He alternates out his kits, and when wearing them, runs alongside the riders cheering them on. His goal is to get on TV I think, and you can often see him when watching race coverage on TV. Matthew and I actually commented on his longhorn kit when watching a previous stage and before meeting him. He hung out with us for a while, and soon we had a small group of Americans around us including folks from New York, California, Texas, and Colorado. Was nice to hear English and American accents!!
The excitement surrounding the arrival of the riders has not waned as we have traveled to 4 stages now……..it is still just as fun to cheer on the caravan and get their loot. This is our German neighbor at stage 15 proudly displaying the cap he just snagged from the Etap Hotel caravan…………….
Then the helicopters arrive and then to finally see the Gendarmerie (French police) and their motorcycle lights escorting the rider in the lead for that stage………….
Even though you may sit there for 6 hours waiting for those 10 minutes of the riders passing, the connections with people from all over the world and the excitement of that moment, not to mention the breathtaking scenery, have made this a truly incredible experience! Got a little corny sounding there too, sorry!
You can also see here how thoughtful Europeans are here…….this car from Switzerland had an interesting windshield fluid trick and apparently thought they could help us with our dirty windshield :D. Or maybe…….it is just that the European cars are all so tiny that the windshield fluid just overshoots them??
The Tour has a “Rest Day” today so we will probably take the time to rest up a little also, and try to catch up on what has happened on the Tour so far. With only seeing a small portion of the race every day and not being able to read local newspapers or get internet reliably, we feel a little lost, even though we are here, hehe. Thanks to Neil and Jim for their texts though!! Keep ’em coming! We will probably hit up the Intermarche (local grocery store), the patisserie, and maybe even the chocolatier again. We had this sweet snack earlier………I love the presentation and it is just the norm in every little shop there. I also wish I had been able to take a sly picture of the Italian couple at the restaurant last night. They were an older couple and to me, the woman epitomized my idea of Italian women……..beautiful black hair, olive skin that was kind of weathered, and just seemed strong, both physically and in character. She was bold, spoke no English, but constantly came over to us in a motherly way, asking if we were full and the food was good through a series of gestures. When we paid and left, both she and her husband shook our hands and wished us well (we think anyhow 🙂 ).
Tomorrow, the Tour comes by our hotel so we will be perched near the summit of the PS Bernard to watch it and are excited to see one of the true high mountain climbs. I get tired riding up the mountain in a car ;P so I am amazed that they would bike up it, and after summiting the Grand San Bernard too……..amazing athletes!! We are having a little bit of a hard time finding Wi-Fi (pronounced “wee-fee” by the French) in the mountain area (and we will be here for 3 more days) but will do our best to keep up with the blog. Hope everyone is doing great! Talk with you soon!!